How to Achieve a Perfect First Layer with Manual Mesh Bed Leveling
Manual Mesh Bed Leveling for 3D Printers: What, Why and How
If you are a 3D printing enthusiast, you probably know how important it is to have a level bed for your prints. A level bed ensures that the first layer of your print adheres well to the surface, and that the rest of the layers are consistent and accurate. However, not all beds are perfectly flat or parallel to the nozzle. Some beds may have bumps, dips, or warps that can affect the print quality. That's where manual mesh bed leveling comes in handy.
Manual Mesh Bed Levelling For 3D Printers shanbertry
In this article, we will explain what manual mesh bed leveling is, why you need it, and how to do it yourself. We will also share some tips and tricks for getting the best results, as well as some alternatives to manual mesh bed leveling. By the end of this article, you will be able to level your bed like a pro and enjoy smoother and more reliable prints.
What is Manual Mesh Bed Leveling?
Manual mesh bed leveling is a technique that allows you to compensate for any irregularities or unevenness on your bed by creating a virtual mesh of points that represent the height of the nozzle at each location. The printer then uses this mesh data to adjust the Z-axis movement according to the shape of the bed, so that the nozzle maintains a constant distance from the surface throughout the print.
Manual mesh bed leveling has several benefits over traditional methods of leveling your bed, such as using springs or screws. Some of these benefits are:
It can correct for any shape or deformation of your bed, not just tilt or skew.
It can improve adhesion and reduce elephant's foot by ensuring a consistent first layer height.
It can reduce print failures and save time and filament by avoiding re-leveling your bed every time you change it or move your printer.
It can work with any type of bed material, such as glass, metal, or magnetic.
It does not require any additional hardware or sensors, only a piece of paper or a feeler gauge.
Why Do You Need Manual Mesh Bed Leveling?
You may be wondering why you need manual mesh bed leveling if your printer already has a flat and rigid bed. The truth is that no bed is perfectly flat or stable. There are many factors that can cause your bed to become uneven or warped over time, such as:
Thermal expansion and contraction due to heating and cooling cycles.
Mechanical stress and wear due to repeated clamping and unclamping of the bed.
Manufacturing defects or imperfections in the bed material or coating.
Environmental factors such as humidity, temperature, or vibration.
These factors can cause your bed to have small variations in height or curvature that may not be visible to the naked eye, but can affect the print quality significantly. For example, if your bed has a bump in the center, the nozzle will be too close to the surface at that point, causing over-extrusion, blobbing, or nozzle clogging. On the other hand, if your bed has a dip in the center, the nozzle will be too far from the surface at that point, causing under-extrusion, poor adhesion, or layer separation.
Manual mesh bed leveling can help you overcome these issues by creating a map of your bed's shape and adjusting the nozzle height accordingly. This way, you can ensure that your first layer is smooth and even, regardless of the shape of your bed.
How to Do Manual Mesh Bed Leveling?
Now that you know what manual mesh bed leveling is and why you need it, let's see how to do it yourself. The process is not very difficult, but it does require some patience and attention to detail. Here are the steps you need to follow:
Step 1: Update Your Firmware
The first thing you need to do is to update your printer's firmware to enable manual mesh bed leveling. The firmware is the software that controls your printer's functions and settings. You need a firmware that supports manual mesh bed leveling, such as Marlin.
To update your firmware, you need to download the latest version of Marlin from its official website or GitHub repository. You also need to download and install a software tool that can flash the firmware to your printer's board, such as Arduino IDE or PlatformIO. You also need a USB cable to connect your printer to your computer.
Once you have everything ready, you need to edit the configuration files of Marlin to suit your printer's specifications and preferences. You can find detailed instructions on how to do this on Marlin's website or YouTube tutorials. The most important thing you need to do is to enable manual mesh bed leveling by uncommenting the following line in Configuration.h:
#define MESH_BED_LEVELING
This will activate the manual mesh bed leveling feature in Marlin. You can also adjust other settings related to manual mesh bed leveling, such as the number of points per row and column, the grid size, and the LCD menu options. You can find more information about these settings on Marlin's website or documentation.
After editing the configuration files, you need to compile and upload the firmware to your printer's board using the software tool you downloaded. This may take a few minutes depending on your computer and printer. Once the firmware is uploaded, you can disconnect the USB cable and restart your printer.
Step 2: Prepare Your Printer and Tools
The next thing you need to do is to prepare your printer and tools for the leveling process. You need to make sure that your printer is clean and stable, and that you have everything you need at hand. Here are some things you need to do:
Clean your nozzle and bed from any residue or debris that may interfere with the leveling.
Heat up your nozzle and bed to their usual printing temperatures. This will account for any thermal expansion or contraction that may affect the leveling.
Make sure that your printer is on a flat and stable surface, and that there is no vibration or movement that may affect the leveling.
Gather the tools you need for the leveling, such as a piece of paper or a feeler gauge, a screwdriver or a hex key, and a ruler or a caliper.
Step 3: Start the Leveling Process
The next thing you need to do is to start the leveling process using either the LCD menu or G-code commands. The LCD menu is easier and more convenient, but it requires that you have an LCD screen on your printer. The G-code commands are more flexible and precise, but they require that you have a computer or a smartphone connected to your printer via USB or WiFi.
Step 4: Adjust the Z-Offset at Each Point
The next thing you need to do is to adjust the Z-offset at each point on the grid. The Z-offset is the distance between the nozzle and the bed at a given point. You want to set this distance to be as close as possible to your desired first layer height, which is usually around 0.2 mm.
To adjust the Z-offset, you need to use a piece of paper or a feeler gauge to measure the gap between the nozzle and the bed. A piece of paper is usually around 0.1 mm thick, while a feeler gauge is a tool that has different thicknesses of metal blades that you can use to measure small gaps.
If you use a piece of paper, you need to slide it between the nozzle and the bed and feel how much friction there is. You want to have a slight resistance, but not too much that it bends or tears the paper. If you use a feeler gauge, you need to choose a blade that matches your desired first layer height (for example, 0.2 mm) and insert it between the nozzle and the bed. You want to have a snug fit, but not too tight that it scratches or damages the bed.
To change the Z-offset, you need to use the LCD menu or G-code commands. If you use the LCD menu, you need to navigate to Configuration > Bed Leveling > Z-Offset and use the knob to increase or decrease the value. If you use G-code commands, you need to send M421 Q followed by a number that represents the Z-offset in millimeters (for example, M421 Q0.2).
You need to repeat this process for each point on the grid until you have covered the entire bed area. You can use the LCD menu or G-code commands to move the nozzle to the next point. If you use the LCD menu, you need to press Next Point after adjusting each point. If you use G-code commands, you need to send G29 S2 after adjusting each point.
Step 5: Save the Mesh Data
The next thing you need to do is to save the mesh data that you have created. The mesh data is stored in a memory chip called EEPROM (Electrically Erasable Programmable Read-Only Memory) or on an SD card if your printer has one.
To save the mesh data, you need to use the LCD menu or G-code commands. If you use the LCD menu, you need to navigate to Configuration > Bed Leveling > Store Settings and press Confirm. This will save the mesh data in EEPROM. If you use G-code commands, you need to send M500 if you want to save the mesh data in EEPROM, or M374 if you want to save it on an SD card.
Saving the mesh data will allow your printer to use it for future prints without having to repeat the leveling process every time. However, if you change your bed or nozzle, or if you notice any changes in your print quality, you may need to redo the leveling process and update the mesh data.
Step 6: Test Your Results
The last thing you need to do is to test your results by printing a test pattern or a calibration cube. A test pattern is a simple print that covers most of your bed area and shows how well your first layer adheres and how consistent it is across different regions. A calibration cube is a small print that measures 20 x 20 x 20 mm and shows how accurate your printer's dimensions are.
To print a test pattern or a calibration cube, you need to download a file from online sources such as Thingiverse or GitHub and slice it using your preferred software such as Cura or PrusaSlicer. You also need to enable manual mesh bed leveling in your slicer settings by adding G29 S1 before your start G-code.
After slicing your file, you need to load it into your printer's SD card or send it via USB or WiFi and start printing. You should observe how well your first layer sticks to the bed and how smooth and even it looks. You should also measure your calibration cube with a ruler or a caliper and compare it to the expected dimensions.
If your results are satisfactory, congratulations! You have successfully leveled your bed using manual mesh bed leveling. If your results are not satisfactory, you may need to tweak some settings or repeat the leveling process until you get it right.
Tips and Tricks for Manual Mesh Bed Leveling
Manual mesh bed leveling is a great technique for improving your print quality and reliability, but it also requires some practice and patience. Here are some tips and tricks that can help you get the best results:
Use a good quality piece of paper or a feeler gauge that is not too thick or too thin. A standard printer paper or a 0.2 mm feeler gauge works well for most cases.
Use the same piece of paper or feeler gauge for the entire leveling process. Different papers or gauges may have different thicknesses or tolerances that can affect the accuracy.
Use a consistent amount of pressure and speed when sliding the paper or feeler gauge between the nozzle and the bed. Too much or too little pressure or speed can cause variations in the Z-offset.
Make small adjustments to the Z-offset at each point. A difference of 0.01 mm can make a big difference in the first layer quality.
Check your nozzle and bed temperatures before and after the leveling process. Temperature changes can affect the thermal expansion or contraction of the nozzle and bed, which can affect the Z-offset.
Check your nozzle and bed cleanliness before and after the leveling process. Any residue or debris on the nozzle or bed can affect the gap between them, which can affect the Z-offset.
Check your nozzle and bed alignment before and after the leveling process. Any misalignment of the nozzle or bed can affect the distance between them, which can affect the Z-offset.
Check your printer's stability before and after the leveling process. Any movement or vibration of your printer can affect the position of the nozzle or bed, which can affect the Z-offset.
Alternatives to Manual Mesh Bed Leveling
Manual mesh bed leveling is not the only way to level your bed. There are other alternatives that you can use depending on your preferences and budget. Some of these alternatives are:
Automatic probes: These are devices that attach to your printer's nozzle or carriage and measure the distance to the bed using sensors such as BLTouch, Inductive, Capacitive, or Force-Sensing Resistors (FSR). They automate the leveling process by creating a mesh data without any manual intervention. They are more accurate and convenient than manual mesh bed leveling, but they also require additional hardware, wiring, and firmware modifications.
Manual springs: These are devices that attach to your printer's bed and allow you to adjust its height using screws or knobs. They are simple and cheap, but they only correct for tilt or skew of your bed, not for bumps or dips. They also require frequent re-leveling as they can lose tension over time.
Conclusion
Manual mesh bed leveling is a technique that allows you to level your bed by creating a virtual mesh of points that represent the height of the nozzle at each location. It can improve your print quality and reliability by compensating for any irregularities or unevenness on your bed.
To do manual mesh bed leveling, you need to update your firmware, prepare your printer and tools, start the leveling process, adjust the Z-offset at each point, save the mesh data, and test your results. You also need to follow some tips and tricks for getting the best results, such as using a good quality piece of paper or a feeler gauge, making small adjustments, and checking your temperatures and cleanliness.
Manual mesh bed leveling is not the only way to level your bed. There are other alternatives such as automatic probes or manual springs that you can use depending on your preferences and budget.
We hope this article has helped you understand what manual mesh bed leveling is, why you need it, and how to do it yourself. If you have any questions or comments, feel free to leave them below. Happy printing!
FAQs
Here are some frequently asked questions and answers about manual mesh bed leveling:
Q: How often do I need to do manual mesh bed leveling?
How to Choose the Best Bed Material for 3D Printing
Another factor that can affect your print quality and bed leveling is the type of bed material you use. The bed material is the surface that your print adheres to during the printing process. There are many types of bed materials available, each with its own advantages and disadvantages. Some of the most common ones are:
Glass: Glass is a smooth and rigid material that provides a flat and stable surface for your prints. It also has good thermal conductivity and resistance, which means it can handle high temperatures and prevent warping. However, glass can be fragile and prone to cracking or shattering if mishandled or dropped. It also requires some kind of adhesive or coating to improve its adhesion with some filaments, such as hairspray, glue stick, or painter's tape.
BuildTak: BuildTak is a thin and flexible plastic sheet that sticks to your bed using an adhesive back. It has a textured surface that provides good grip and adhesion with most filaments, especially PLA and PETG. It also has good durability and resistance to wear and tear. However, BuildTak can be difficult to remove or replace if damaged or worn out. It can also cause some filaments to stick too well, making it hard to remove the prints without damaging them or the sheet.
PEI: PEI (Polyetherimide) is a thermoplastic polymer that has excellent mechanical and thermal properties. It has a smooth surface that provides strong adhesion with most filaments, especially ABS and Nylon. It also has good resistance to heat and chemicals, which means it can handle high temperatures and prevent warping. However, PEI can be expensive and hard to find compared to other bed materials. It also requires some maintenance and cleaning to keep its adhesion performance.
Blue Painter's Tape: Blue painter's tape is a cheap and easy solution for improving your bed adhesion. It is a paper-based tape that has a low-tack adhesive that sticks well to your bed without leaving any residue. It has a rough surface that provides good grip and adhesion with most filaments, especially PLA. It also has good flexibility and conformability, which means it can adapt to any shape or curvature of your bed. However, blue painter's tape can wear out quickly and require frequent replacement. It can also leave some marks or fibers on your prints.
To choose the best bed material for your 3D printing, you need to consider several factors, such as:
The type of filament you are using: Different filaments have different adhesion properties and requirements. For example, PLA sticks well to most surfaces, but ABS needs a heated bed and a smooth surface.
The size and shape of your print: Larger or taller prints may need more adhesion and stability than smaller or flatter prints. For example, a large print may need a glass bed with hairspray to prevent warping, while a small print may be fine with blue painter's tape.
The quality and durability of your print: Higher quality or longer lasting prints may need more reliable and consistent adhesion than lower quality or temporary prints. For example, a functional part may need a PEI sheet with good heat resistance, while a decorative model may be fine with BuildTak.
The cost and availability of your bed material: Cheaper or more accessible bed materials may be more convenient and economical than more expensive or rare bed materials. For example, blue painter's tape may be easier and cheaper to get than PEI.
Ultimately, the best bed material for your 3D printing depends on your personal preferences and needs. You may need to experiment with different bed materials until you find the one that works best for you.
This concludes my article on manual mesh bed leveling for 3D printers. I hope you found it informative and helpful. If you have any feedback or suggestions, please let me know in the comments below. 71b2f0854b